| DRINKS >
The Bacchus Report: Riesling Über Alles
Written by: Helena Baker
Riesling in its various incarnations
is to many connoisseurs the indisputable King of Wines. And where
can it be found at its peak but in its cradle - Germany - where
it is thought to have descended from the original vine of the forests,
vitis silvestris.
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The vine itself is vigorous, having a good resistance to frost
and extreme cold. And, as in other wine regions of northern middle
Europe such as Alsace and Bohemia, it is absolutely indispensable
for the production of quality white wines. At its best, principally
around the Rhine and Mosel rivers, the Riesling gives steely wines
with high acidity and an aroma highly reminiscent of minerals and
petroleum. Late-harvest wines are packed with spiciness and have
bags of ageing potential, the best being able to look forward to
several decades in the owner's cellar. Representative samples to
be found in the Czech Republic are from Weingut Georg Huff, a family
winery in the picturesque village of Schwabsburg, not far from the
famous wine town of Nierstein. Also in the Rhine valley is Weingut
Ernst Bretz from Bechtolsheim, in the heart of the Rheinhessen wine
region. This is another family outfit which has been producing wine
since 1721, specializing in such types as trockenbeerenauslese and
eiswein. From the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region we have Dr. Fischer of
Ockfen, an estate now managed by the said doctor's daughter. Wines
from the Saar are super-light in alcohol and notable for their steely
character topped by refreshing tones of zippy fruit.
It is worth noting that German wine labels are nowhere near as hard
to decipher as all those long and unpenetrable words may suggest.
Right at the top comes the name of one of the country's thirteen
designated wine regions. Below the picture appear the town and vineyard
where the grapes are grown, followed by the grape variety and quality
level.
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TOOLBOX
 The
Zyllis gift package is a suitable present for almost anyone
who likes wines. The nicely designed set includes a foil cutter,
cork screw, thermometer, stopper and rings to prevent the
wine from dripping down the side of the bottle. Price: CZK
2,175.
Available from: La Vecchia
Bottega, OC Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8, Praha 5.
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Upcoming tastings
Pasha, U Lužického semináře 23, Praha 1
The Prague Wine Society and Pasha restaurant will be holding a Lebanese
wine and food tasting on Monday, 29th July 2002 at 7pm. More info
on tel: 5753 2434 or at www.pasha.cz.
WINE GUIDE
Wines made from the Riesling cultivar are
refreshingly crisp due to the high acidity content and therefore
make for perfect summer imbibing. The following examples are now
available in the Czech Republic:
Riesling 1999,
Niersteiner Schloss Schwabsburg, Rheinhessen, kabinet, suché
Is wonderfully fragrant, with citrus fruits mingling with
linden flowers plus a typical whiff of petrol on the nose
and with an elegant, full and round palate.
Available from: Galerie vín a vinný sklep, KC Beroun.
Retail price: CZK 295
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Riesling
2000, Niersteiner Hipping, Rheinhessen, pozdní sběr, suché
From this boutique family winery, it displays a fine bouquet
with a harmonious, complex taste and lovely zesty finish. Good
aging potential!
Available from: Galerie vín a vinný sklep, KC Beroun.
Retail price: CZK 395 |
Riesling 2000,
Bechtolsheimer Petersberg, Rheinhessen, jakostní, suché
This pale sample with a typical mineral nose along with
hints of boiled sweets is crisp, pleasantly drinkable and
food-friendly.
Available from: Vinotéka Modrý domeček, Vítova 8, Dobřichovice.
Retail price: CZK 220
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Riesling
2000, Ockfener Bockstein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, jakostní, suché
This one comes from the Saar valley and is pale with lush apple
(Granny Smith) and citrus fruit with a hint of petrol developing,
oily, slatey and very crisp and light.
Available from: Vinotéka Modrý domeček, Vítova 8, Dobřichovice.
Retail price: CZK 260. |
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