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The Bacchus Report: Best reds of the Riviera
Written by: Helena Baker
Provence has long been home to the
most famous playground in France, though in vinous terms its reputation
has rested on the vast quantities of mediocre plonk for the undiscerning
drinker.
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Much of this consists of prettily bottled Côtes de Provence rosés,
notorious for being high in alcohol while equally low in stature.
This is a pity since this is the oldest wine-producing region in
France, settled two and a half thousand years ago by Greeks who
planted vines.
Only in the last twenty or so years have enlightened producers begun
to move away from this mediocrity. Although Vins de Pays and Vins
de Table still account for most of the well over a hundred million
liters produced each year, mostly from the high-yielding Carignan
grape variety, much is changing for the better while even some of
those rosés are becoming interesting. Of all the eight mutually
distrusting Provencal appellations, Bandol, declared in 1941, has
succeeded in making its name as the most highly rated with some
hefty reds, well known for their fully-rounded herbaceous aroma.
This is a relatively tiny area centered on a tourist-friendly port
just to the east of Toulon, with just 1,400 hectares under vine.
The pebbled clay soil is rusty red from its high content of iron
oxide, while climatic conditions - hot summers and mild winters
with the added bonus of sea cooling - are ideal for the fashionable
if finicky Mourvedre grape. This grape not only has one of the longest
maturing cycles of any variety, it also produces one of the lowest
yields. In all, thirteen grapes are permitted, as well as Cabernet
Sauvignon, which has begun to show its face here as almost everywhere
else. Cinsault and Grenache are the usual ingredients in the blend,
helping to offset the high tannins of Mourvedre. Bandol rosé, based
on Cinsault grapes, is also much imbibed in the area. Structured
reds with excellent tannins have aging ability of up to seven years.
Those in the know need very little encouragement to seek out this
small region's very quaffable wines, thirteen of which are available
in Prague.
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TOOLBOX
 Store
wines in decorative metal racks: 1. wire rack from Zack, expanded
set for six bottles, CZK 1,738 2. stainless steel rack Tommy
Larsen, set for 10 bottles, CZK 3,901.
Available from: Albertina,
Revoluèní 24, Praha 1, tel.: 222 312 567
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Upcoming tastings
U svatého Vincenta, Liborova 13, Praha 6 - Bøevnov (near hotel
Pyramida, tram stop Marjánka). On January 16 at 7 pm, a tasting
of Bulgarian wines and Bulgarian food specialties will take place
in the vinotheque. Entrance 295 Kè.
WINE GUIDE
After a careful look at Bandol wines available in this country,
we have picked the following samples:
La Cadiérenne
Rosé, Vin de Pays du Mont Caume
Entry level rosé from the cooperative which is the largest
producer in Mont Caume, an area in the hills above Bandol.
Salmon-pink in color, with a volatile flowery nose leading
to a lively palate.
Price: 186 Kè
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La
Cadiérenne, AOC Bandol red
This deep-tinted wine from the same producer is reminiscent
of red berry fruits, typical of the predominant Mourvedre grape
variety. A good rounded texture on the tongue added to generous
helpings of herbaceousness.
Price: 460 Kè |
Domaine de
la Laidiere 2001, AOC Bandol white
Grapes are hand-picked with temperature-controlled fermentation
undergone in stainless steel. Clear straw hue and an elegant
floral nose make way for a persistent taste of yellow fruits.
Fine accompaniment to seafood.
Price: 590 Kè
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Chateau
Pradeaux 1999, AOC Bandol red
From the leading estate in Bandol, this strongly structured
and scarlet-hued blockbuster has a complex spice-oriented bouquet
and a sumptuous mouthfeel evolving into deep fruitiness with
hints of rosemary and thyme.
The finish is both persistent and long. If you can wait, this
is wine to lay down.
Price: 1350 Kè |
All of the wines are available at: Prague Passion,
tel.: 602 368 662, pragpass@ifrance.com
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