| DINING >
Coda: Harmony of the senses
Written by: Jasmina Žarković
Photo: Dorothea Bylica
Exciting tastes, soothing sounds,
alluring flavors - the new Coda restaurant will no doubt engage
all of your senses.
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The simple, pellucid interior, constantly suffused with the music
of various styles and eras - these are the main attributes of the
hotel Aria and its new restaurant Coda. Neither the hotel nor the
restaurant intend to compete with large-capacity international
chains in terms of size (the restaurant seats only 40), but in
terms of the menu offered and unique decor it represents a gauntlet
thrown down for the current fixed stars in the Prague dining galaxy.
Coda is run by the well-known Prague restaurateur Nils Jebens,
a Norwegian who has been living in Prague for almost ten years
and enjoys no dearth of publicity. Epicureans know him mainly as
the owner of great restaurants: the luxurious Kampa Park, Square
- Malostranská kavárna, Hergetova cihelna, and the Bratislava-based
venue Le Monde. Each of his establishments is conceived in a different
way and focuses on a different sort of clientele. Coda is the fifth
off-shoot of Jebens's chain, and it stands out from the rest. "The
atmosphere here is entirely different, not least in that people
don't come to this restaurant to be seen or to dance, but rather
to have lunch with business partners," Jebens says, adding
that, like the hotel as a whole, the restaurant is designed mainly
for international clients - executives and diplomats.
This is borne out by its sedate, unpretentious, but comfortable
interior from the studio of the Italian architects Rocco Manoli
and Lorenzo Carmellini, who are renowned in particular for their
work with the legendary fashion designer Gianni Versace. "I
wanted to create a restaurant the likes of which Prague had never
seen," Jebens says, not concealing his ambitions to receive
three stars from Michelin, gastronomy's highest award. Thus far,
no Czech restaurant can boast of receiving this honor. The Alcron
restaurant in the Radisson SAS hotel came the closest in 2002,
when it was included on the list in the Michelin Red Guide. The
restaurant's special features include a roof terrace that seats
fifty, offering a magical view of the roofs and gardens of the
Malá Strana.
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Just as "coda" means an addition at the end of a musical
composition, the restaurant Coda, with its culinary specialties,
is an ideal adjunct to the hotel, where music rules. Just take
a look at the menu, which, while not overly extensive, will appeal
to even the most demanding gourmets thanks to its creative selections.
From the first glance at the appetizers it's clear that quality
supercedes quantity - hence the torchon of foie gras with Sauterne
jelly, Iranian caviar chilled on ice, or grilled octopus with eggplant-tomato
compote. Choosing the main course is a concert in itself. Jebens
himself unreservedly recommends the fish specialties, for which
all of his restaurants are renowned. His favorite is devil fish
with a ragout of linguini and cherrystone sauce. Also high on the
list is the grilled Chilean sea-dog with risotto of king crab,
spinach, brown mushrooms, and lobster mousse.
Another Coda specialty is the quick-roasted deer saddle with mashed
sweet potatoes and Burgundy sauce. If you prefer mutton, try the
lamb cutlet with potato and bacon paté. Coda has choices for vegetarians
too, like the grilled seasonal vegetables with Jerusalem artichoke
mousse or pappardelle with wild mushrooms and rucola with pecorino
cheese. The dessert menu is also hefty - and not just in calories.
Cardamon cre`me brulée with caramel crust with wild fruit, white
chocolate soufflé with mocha ice cream or heisse liebe - warm,
vodka-soaked raspberries with home-made vanilla ice cream - are
a few of the sensuous options.
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Besides excellent Czech wines from Valtice, the list at Coda includes
the very best from France, Spain, Italy, Chile, Argentina, the
US, South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. The oldest vintage
on the list is a red French Bordeaux - Cha^teau Lafite-Rothschild
Premier cru, Pauillac, 1982. If you're in unfamiliar territory,
the pleasant staff will help you choose an appropriate bottle for
your meal.
The main culprits behind this resourceful menu are chef Marek Radič
and his team. In 1992 Radič took third place in the Young Chefs
Olympics, and he came to Prague with experience gleaned in restaurants
in Copenhagen (Kong Hans, Etcetera, Capo, and St. Giorgio) and
New York (Nobu, Café Boulud, and Mercer Kitchen).
Coda,
Hotel Aria, Tržiště 9, Praha 1
tel.: 225 334
790-1
daily 11:30-1:00
www.codarestaurant.com
AMEX, Visa, MC/EC, Diners
Club
| LIMELIGHT
- Much more than coffee
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| Photo:
Archiv |
JUST A FEW STEPS from náměstí Míru, a new restaurant
is already proving a popular alternative to neighborhood
mainstays. The spacious interior provides a perfect
backdrop for diners to enjoy a very reasonably
priced breakfast (from 8am), while evening selections
are surprisingly varied. Starters like salmon tartare
with basil toast open the menu, followed by entrées
that include saddle of rabbit in a herb crust with
grilled apples and potato purée, and chicken fricassée
with honey sauce and basmati rice.
The wine list is equally impressive, with selections
ranging from the Czech Tanzberg cellars to Laroche
from France and Tarapaca from Chile.
Retro kavárna, Francouská 4, Praha 2, tel.: 603
176 111 |
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FARTHER AFIELD: Pod Dračí skálou
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Photo by: Dorothea Bylica
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If you visit the Karlštejn area in this brisk season, be sure not
to miss the restaurant Pod Dračí skálou. Its location right below
the castle makes for a quite romantic environment, and the interiors
are so cozy you won't want to go back out into the cold. The walls
are bedecked with hunting trophies, flames dance in the fireplace,
and the delightful aromas of cooking waft from the kitchen. This
establishment's great reputation has spread far and wide thanks to
its wild game specialties. As autumn gives way to winter, the owners
even organize a game feast. Although the menu is weighted towards
meat entrées, vegetarian dishes here are also tasty. The restaurant
seats 120, service is attentive and prompt, and the waitpersons speak
foreign languages. Incidentally, the popular singer Helena Vondráčková
held her wedding reception here in summer 2002, so large groups are
obviously no problem. Dinners generally cost CZK 200 and up.
Pod Dračí skálou
Karlštejn 130, tel./fax: 311 681 177; Mon-Sat 11-23, Sun 11-20
pod.draci@seznam.cz, mujweb.cz/www/pod.draci/
How to get there:
Highway to Plzeň, exit 10 to Loděnice, and then right to Mokřina
where you will see the restaurant signs. Or walk from the parking
area at Karlštejn to the castle, and turn left at the little
square.
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| Photo by:
Pavel Veselý |
MY PLACE Vratislav
Randa
owner, Tipsport
"My favorite Prague restaurant is Petřínské terasy. I must
add that the main reason isn't the food, which I like very much,
but the absolutely glorious views of the world's most beautiful
city. I almost always order poultry, fish, or pasta. From their
wine list I usually go for a fine red, such as a Cabernet Sauvignon
from Chile. And I have a nostalgic memory of Petřínské terasy -
it was there that Tipsport celebrated its tenth anniversary, with
the American track star Michael Johnson in attendance. He too was
fascinated by the atmosphere of a May evening on the terraces of
Petřín. I can recommend this restaurant in the spring or summer
to everyone, but especially to lovers."
Petřínské terasy, Seminářská zahrada 13, tel.: 290 000 457 |
